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Salon Talk

Dermaviduals®: Essential Fatty Acids

Paleontologists tell us that our ancestors had diets rich in aquatic animals containing unsaturated Omega-3s that supported the development of the human brain due to its high DHA content. The brain is built from fatty acids and omega-DHA that it is imperative for memory and thinking. Polyunsaturated essential fatty acids (EFAs) are a primary component for developing healthy cell membranes. When applied topically, products containing essential fatty acids help prevent/correct skin barrier and cornification disorders and lower the rate of transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Essential fatty acids cannot be synthesised by the body and must come from foods sources. Today scientists continue to uncover evidence that correct intake of omega-3s is essential to cell function. EFAs perform key roles in helping to maintain optimal health throughout the entire body and the skin.

  • Inflammation-moderating: reduces the production of cytokine messenger chemicals that cause excessive inflammation (the immune response) and inhibits the activation of monocytes. Chronic inflammation is a catalyst for atherosclerosis, a leading cause of cardiovascular disease.
  • Perform an important role in the production of hormone-like substances called prostaglandins. Prostaglandins support regulation of blood pressure, blood clotting, nerve transmission, functions of kidneys and gastrointestinal tract, inflammatory and allergic responses, and more.3
  • Help to balance and control fats circulating in the blood stream (cholesterol and triglycerides). 3
  • Help decrease platelet aggregation (blood clotting).
  • Support arterial expansion and contraction.
  • Reduce the risk for obesity by assisting insulin response through stimulating leptin secretions, a hormone that helps regulate food intake, body weight and metabolism.
  • Help prevent cancer cell growth.
  • Improves ADD, ADHD
  • Support the healing of sunburn and regeneration of the skin barrier.
  • Gastrointestinal disease

EFAD

Several symptoms are associated with EFA deficiencies.1

  • Depression, nervous disorders, learning deficits
  • Growth deficiencies in children
  • Inflammation
  • Autoimmune diseases
  • Memory loss; inability to concentrate
  • Alzheimer’s
  • Cardiovascular disease
  • Gastrointestinal disease
  • Type 2 Diabetes
  • Fatigue
  • Joint pain
  • Psoriasis, dry, scaly itchy skin
  • Brittle nails, dry hair

Lipids (Fats)

Prior to understanding the role of essential fatty acids let’s review the different types of fats found in our diets. Fats are derived from fatty acids and glycerol and are referred to as triglycerides. Carbon molecules are framed with hydrogen and oxygen and are joined by ester bonds. When a carbon chain is completely full of hydrogen molecules it is considered “saturated”. When it is missing two hydrogen molecules, it is called a monosaturated fat. Lipids have three roles in our cells: (1) provide an important form of energy storage; (2) are a major component of cell membranes; (3) play a significant role in cell signalling.

Table 1: Fats – Click on the image below to see a full list of fats

The Cell Membrane

Fatty acids (lipids) make up all cell membranes. The main function of a cell membrane is to selectively regulate active transport that allows certain substances (nutrients) to enter and leave (cell wastes) while preventing others. Four major phospholipid groups make up 50-60% of the lipid membrane forming a stable barrier: Phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidylserine, phosphatidylethanolamine, and sphingomyelin.9 Additionally, the plasma membranes contain glycolipids and cholesterol that correspond to about 40% of the total membrane lipid molecules.9 Lipid bilayers behave as two-dimensional fluids (fluidity) in which both lipids and proteins are free to rotate and move in lateral directions. This is a vital property of membranes and is dependent upon temperature and lipid composition.9

Transmembrane proteins are also inserted within the lipid bilayers. The phospholipids give structural organisation to cell membranes. The proteins are responsible for specific functions including communication (signalling) and channel proteins that form pores or selective doorways throughout the cell membrane.9

Building the skin barrier

Healthy skin cells work in synergy to build a strong skin barrier. During epidermal differentiation, the metabolically active keratinocytes move upward and differentiate to build a strong barrier. Essential fatty acids merge into the phospholipids of the cell membranes and organelles.7 At the granulosum layers, the cells contain oil-rich reservoirs called Odlund (lamellar) bodies that are filled with ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids. They excrete their contents into the extracellular spaces and form what are known as the bilayers. Their strategic function is to govern skin permeability and water balance (NMF) within the skin.1 They are also the primary pathways for chemical penetration through the stratum corneum.

Considerations for maintaining a healthy cell membrane

Inadequate intake of omega-3 results in abnormalities in the skin barrier. There’s a marked difference in healthy skin with organised lamellae (layers) between the corneocytes versus skin with essential fatty acid deficiency (EFAD) that causes disorganisation and appears as undulations (furrows) resulting in ichthyosis (scaly skin). When the membrane becomes damaged (oxidative stress, disease, poor nutrition) it no longer functions correctly leading to acceleration of the ageing process. Glycation (deep wrinkles) is a prime example.

EFA Balance for Optimum Health

EPA, DHA (from Omega-3 ALA) and AA (arachidonic acid from Omega-6 (LA) are both metabolised though the same biochemical pathways. EPA and AA are precursors for hormone-like agents (signalling molecules) called eicosanoids that play a vital role in immune and inflammatory responses throughout the body including the skin. The highly complex conversion process is reliant on a complex series of enzymatic alterations – delta-6 desaturase and delta-5 desaturase. This rate of conversion is considered very inefficient since only 1-10% of ALA is actually converted to EPA and DHA.11 During the conversion process, both Omega-3 and Omega-6 compete for the same enzymes. When there is competition from a surplus of omega-6 fats it becomes a colossal deterrent for omega-3 to be converted correctly. Moreover, if an individual has an enzyme defect that prevents the formation of GLA and other essential substances it can lead to dermatitis and other inflammatory issues that contributes to biological ageing.

Dietary recommendations include reducing the amount of Omega-6 and increasing Omega-3 along with adequate amounts of all nutrients including vitamin B6, B3, vitamin C, magnesium and zinc. GLA (gamma linolenic acid) can be found in primrose oil, borage oil, and in the seed oil of black currents. These GLA-enriched oils are also incorporated into many of the dermaviduals® formulations to support skin correction.

Inflammation and Drug Intervention

Life style, genetic traits, and other conditions, however, can lead to inflammatory diseases such as arthritis, cardiovascular diseases, dermatitis, dry scaly rashes, and skin barrier function disorders. EPA (eicosapentaenoic acid) and AA (arachidonic acid) regulate inflammatory responses by regulating the production of proinflammatory compounds such as cytokines. Optimum function of these complex chemical processes is vital to health. Medical intervention often recommends taking anti-inflammatory drugs such as NSAIDs, anti-rheumatic drugs, and other topical skin prescriptions. Unfortunately, these drugs interfere or inhibit specific enzyme activities necessary for fatty acid metabolism.2 The effects begin to manifest in the skin in the form of inflammation and disturbance within the skin’s layered structures including the moisture barrier.

Additionally, extreme omega imbalance may also deter development of human brains, disease risks including depression, and cancer. It also can affect foetal development when mothers do not consume proper levels of omega-3 as well as other required nutrients. Individual omega-3 ratio requirements depend upon the health of an individual, especially in the elderly and/or in the presence of disease that may demand more therapeutic doses of omega-3.

Wise Choices

Since the 1960s, the introduction of cheap vegetable oils was believed to be a healthier choice to butter and lard. Furthermore during the 1980s, consumers were lead to believe that “fats were bad.” A low fat, low carbohydrate diet became synonymous with being healthy. This false ideology gave rise to increased health risks including obesity. The problem was that these oils contained high ratios of Omega-6s (linoleic acid) leading to a ground swell of omega imbalances and health risks. An average diet provides 20 or more parts of omega-6s to one part omegas-3s. This is seven times higher than the recommended three-to-one intake ratio that supports optimal health. Omega-6s are plentiful in corn, safflower, sunflower, cottonseed, and soy including packaged, take-out, and prepared foods that are high in these oils. This also includes grain fed meat, poultry, and farmed fish.

Seafood sources provide the long chain Omega-3s that our body requires. It is recommended that you consume wild caught fish from cold waters from sustainable fisheries twice a week. Be mindful of some species of fish due to significant levels of contaminants in particular methylmercury and PCBs. Artificial colour is injected into farm-raised salmon to give a pink tone to the flesh. Wild pink salmon obtain their natural pink/orange colour from a fat-soluble carotenoid pigment called astaxanthin taken from their rich diet of zooplankton and krill. If you cannot consume fish, omega-3 can be found in other foods including flax seed oil, walnuts, and soybean.

Supplements

It may also be advantageous to supplement. Be mindful that supplements come from a reliable source. To ensure purity and potency, the fish oil should undergo a multistep molecular distillation process that

  • Concentrates and refines the omega-3 fatty acids
  • Removes lead, mercury, arsenic, cadmium, dioxins, and PCBs and other contaminants
  • Reduces oxidation and formation of trans fats
  • Minimized odour and fishy aftertaste.

Oral consumption – notation

While the natural 15-lipoxygenase of the skin oxidises linoleic acid, α-linolenic acid and γ-linolenic acid into anti-inflammatory acids, the same omega-3 or omega-6 acids taken orally are metabolised into eicosapentaenoic acid resp. arachidonic acid and their respective reaction products that are less efficient.

Precaution: Individuals who have disorders involving bleeding, bruising, or consuming blood thinners should consult with their medical practitioner prior to taking supplements of omega-3 fatty acids.

dermaviduals® Solutions: Balanced diet + physiological skin care = Healthy Cells = Healthy Skin

Maintaining the health of the cell is paramount to the skin. Cosmetic ingredients such as emulsifiers, fragrances, colourants, and mineral oils can impede the skin barrier and also damage cell membranes. Based on the science of corneotherapy, the dermaviduals® DMS® system (derma membrane structure) contains phosphatidylcholine made up of linoleic acid and choline. This membrane-forming system is delivered in a spherical transport system utilising liposomes or nanoparticles and offers the perfect balance of essential fatty acids in skincare.

High concentrations of alpha linoleic acid (Omega-3) can be found in Lotion N and Linseed Oil. Additionally, look out for Omega-6’s in Avocado Oil, Grape Seed Oil, Rose Hip Seed Oil as well as Wheat Germ Oil. They really give your skin a boost of essential fatty acids.

Disclaimer

This dossier has been prepared on behalf of dermaviduals Australia and New Zealand as a reference that relates to various skin conditions. In no way do they replace the advice of your medical practitioner or a dermatologist. All views represent the research and findings of the writer in conjunction with derma aesthetics.

REFERENCES & ADDITIONAL READING

  1. Weatherby, Craig (2010, June 1) Did Humans Evolve on Fishy Diets? Retrieved fromhttp://vitalchoice.com/shop/pc/articlesView.asp?id=1039
  2. Lautenschlager, H (2003) Essential fatty acids – cosmetics from inside and outside. Beauty Forum (4), 54-56.
  3. Arita M, Bianchini F, Aliberti J., et al (2005 March 7) Sterochemical assignment, anti-inflammatory properties, and receptor for the omega-3 lipid mediator resolving E1. J Exp Med.: 201(5): 713-22. PMID: 15753205 Retrieved from http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/15753205
  4. Daniells, S. (2 March 2012) Omega-3 may reduce inflammatory marker to offer ‘multiple’ health benefits. Two studies: Yang et al. Bethune First Hospital of Julin University in China and by Touvier et al. National Institute of Health and Medical Research in Paris. Retrieved fromhttp://www.nutraingredients-usa.com/content/view/print/617472
  5. Fickova, M., Hubert, P., Cremel, G., Leray C., (1998 March) Dietary (n-3) and n-6 polyunsaturated fatty acids rapidly modify fatty acid composition and insulin effects in rat adipocytes. Retrieved fromhttp://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/9482757
  6. Sears, W. MD (2009), The N.D.D. Book: How Nutrition Deficit Disorder Affects Your Child’s Learning, Behavior, and Health, and What You Can Do About It – Without Drugs. New York: Little, Brown and Company, Hachette Book Group.
  7. Vigilante, K. , Flynn, M. (1999) Low-Fat Lies, High-Fat Frauds and the healthiest diet in the world. Washington, D.C.: Life Line Press (pp. 42-42)
  8. Cooper, G. M., Hausman, R.E. (2009) The Cell: A Molecular Approach. ASM Press, Washington, DC. Sinauer Associates, Inc. Sunderland. Massachusetts. P. 46
  9. Omega-3 Fatty Acids and Health Fact Sheet – NIH Office of Dietary Supplements. Retrieved fromhttp://ods.od.nih.gov/factsheets/Omega3FattyAcidsandHealth-HealthProfessional/?print=1
  10. Barrett-Hill, F. (2005) Advanced Skin Analysis. Virtual Beauty, New Zealand. p. 122
  11. Elias, P.M, Feingold, K. R. (2006). Skin Barrier. Taylor & Francis Group, NY, London. P. 78
  12. omega-3 fatty acids. George Mateljan Foundation. Retrieved from http://whfoods.org/genpage.php?tname=nutrient&dbid=84
  13. Weatherby, C. (3 February 2009) Dietary Omega – 3/6 Imbalance May Blunt Babies’ Brains. Retrieved from http://vitalchoice.com/shop/pc/articlesView.asp?id=778
  14. Simopoulos, AP. (2002) The importance of the ratio of omega-6/omega-3 essential fatty acids. Biomed Pharmacother. 56(8): 365-79. Retrieved from http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/12442909
  15. Kessler, D. (13 March 2010) Obesity: The killer combination of sugar, fat and salt. Retrieved fromhttp://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2010/mar/13/obesity-salt-fat-sugar-kessler/print
  16. Lands, W.E. America’s Sickening “Omega Imbalance”. Retrieved fromhttp://www.vitalchoice.com/shop/pc/viewContent.asp?idpage=202
  17. Ordonez, E.A., Zani, A. J. (2011) Eat to be free. Lulu publishing. P. 57
  18. Illustrations: public domain
  19. Allport, Susan (2006). The Queen of Fats: Why Omega-3s Were Removed from the Western Diet and What We can Do To Replace Them. University of California Press, Ltd. London, England and Berkley and Los Angeles, California.
  20. Sears, W., MD (2009). The NDD Book: How Nutrition Deficit Disorder Affects Your Child’s Learning Behavior, and Health, and What You Can Do About It – Without Drugs. New York: Little, Brown and Company, Hachette Book Group
  21. Tribole, E. (2007) The Ultimate Omega-3 Diet. McGraw-Hill.
  22. Vigilante, K. Flynn, M. (1999) Low-Fat Lies, High-Fat Frauds and the healthiest diet in the world. Washington, D.C.: Life Line Press.

Dermaviduals®: Rosacea – Sensitive or Reactive Skin

A common condition

Rosacea, or sensitive skin, afflicts a growing proportion of our community. Those most affected tend to be aged between 30 – 60, with a naturally paler complexion.

Females are more likely to suffer from rosacea, however, when rosacea does occur in males it is often more severe and advances more rapidly. The causes in either sex, can be genetic predisposition, environmental stress, vascular or inflammatory damage/disease.

Signs and symptoms

Rosacea refers to a range of symptoms that generally begin with some blushing or modest redness on the cheeks, nose, forehead and chin. As the condition progresses, symptoms typically worsen to include persistent redness of the nose and cheeks. Small blood vessels begin to grow (Telangiectasia), particularly on the nose, and become increasingly visible. Diffused redness may become permanent, often worsening after exercise, consumption of coffee or alcohol or other factors (see below).  Redness is also an indicator of collagen loss, which leads to thin skin density and weakened support of the capillary network.

Additionally, vesicles (pustules or papules) may develop in these later stages; a factor which has led to the misdiagnosis of rosacea as “adult acne.”

Types of rosacea

Onset or pre-rosacea

  • Transient flushing, central redness (erythema)
  • Stinging, burning, roughness or scaling

Papulopustular as rosacea progresses

  • Persistent flushing, central facial redness (erytherma)
  • Water or fluid filled vesicles (not to be confused with acne)

Phymatous rosacea

  • Thickened, course skin(usually nose and or chin)
  • Enlarged pores and nodules present

Ocular rosacea

  • Photosensitivity, watery eyes
  • Burning, stinging, or the feeling of a foreign body within the eye
Aggravating Factors of Rosacea
  • UV exposure
  • Overactive immune system
  • Perfumes and essential oils
  • Fruit acids or chemical peels
  • Over use of lipid substances in topical skincare
  • Alcohol substance of more than 10% concentration in cosmetic skincare
  • Creams containing emulsifiers as they can lead to dissolving of natural lipids
  • Physical exercise
  • Menopause
  • Emotional & adrenal stress
  • Temperature changes (extreme), including hot showers
  • Chemicals (surfactants and preservatives) that can be found in many cleansers, toners and moisturisers
  • Some medications
  • Hormonal fluctuations such as menopause
  • Digestive disorders
  •  Free radicals
  • Vitamin A & vitamin C deficiency
  • Diet e.g. alcohol, chocolate, acidic food & hot spicy foods
Correct skin care and treatments to help manage symptoms

While there is currently no cure per se for rosacea, its symptoms can be managed quite effectively. Cellular health is very important to improving the condition. In addition to the ingredients outlined below, a dietary intake of essential fatty acids such as Omega 3 & 6 is beneficial.

Inflammatory symptoms and lesions that may be part of the condition can be treated with the use of Liposome Concentrate Plus. Applied as a pure serum, this fatty acid composition contains up to 80 % linoleic acid, which is metabolized in the skin as 13-hydroxyoctadecadienoic acid (13-HODE) with excellent anti-inflammatory properties (omega-6 chain). It also contains azelaic acid which has antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and exfoliating properties, making it a great treatment for rosacea as it scavenges free radicals.

Since azelaic acid inhibits melanin synthesis, it is also effective against hyperpigmentation and melasma.

Liposomes are very effective against cornification disorders such as rosacea. The gradual introduction ofLinseed Oil delivered via nanoparticles for direct absorption by the skin; contains more than 50 % α-linolenic acid (ALA; omega-3 chain) which is enzymatically transformed in the skin as an anti-inflammatory and Evening primrose Oil (EPO) will further reduce inflammation. It is very rich in γ-linolenic acid (GLA; omega-6 chain). EPO can improve firmness and elasticity and helps your body produce new skin cells. It also helps to smooth out the rough skin and helps in hydrating dry skin without the water phase, which can be contra-indicated for rosacea.

Boswellia Resin: The acetyl-11-keto-β-boswellia acid of Boswellia Resin inhibits the enzyme 5-Lipoxygenase, which can trigger inflammatory processes in the body. Only after processing Boswellia Resin into nanodispersions, can it can be made available for corneotherapeutic skin care.

D-panthenol is the pre-stage of vitamin B5. It calms and relieves itching, increases skin hydration and intensifies the recovery process by supporting the healing phase by aiding the production of new skin cells.Vitamin A promotes the formation of collagen and regeneration of the skin.

Recent research by Richard L Gallo has indicated that rosacea sufferers have abnormally high levels of a peptide called Cathelicidins, which create an inflammatory response in the skin.

It is particularly important to visit a qualified dermaviduals clinician to seek a full skin consultation prior to commencing any tailored home care or clinic program, as the cause of rosacea and the effect of these ingredients means a variety of treatment options are available.

The weakened blood vessels associated with rosacea can be treated with the use of dermal needling using the MTS roller system.  HOW?  By stimulating epidermal growth factors and increasing the density of the epidermis, it lessens the appearance of vessels beneath the skin and reduces overall redness. It will also strengthen collagen in both vessel walls and the connective tissue that support the vessels.

In summary, if rosacea is a concern for you, the use of dermaviduals in conjunction with the MTS Roller system is your solution. It is very important to do this under professional guidance.

NOTE: mechanical peelings are NOT recommended for rosacea prone skin or similar skin problems that affect superficial connective tissue. This will cause more disruption to the acid mantle where a compromised bilayer already exists.

Corneotherapy and rosacea

Corneotherapeutic treatments aim to stabilise the disordered skin barrier over the course of the long term. The skin barrier, when strong and intact, can largely stop external rosacea triggers such as environmental stress, chemicals and germs.

As the skin barrier is stabilised, the likelihood of inflammatory processes in the deeper skin layers recurring decreases. Instead, they will gradually regress and you will notice visible improvements to the condition. This treatment is called the “outside-in” strategy. In summary, a stronger skin with intact lipid bilayers will be better able to prepare itself to utilize anti-oxidants to scavenge free radicals.  In short, it can obviate all that rosacea can throw at it. The skin care products you use should be free of perfumes, preservatives, emulsifiers, mineral oils and silicones, as these substances have the ability to further aggravate a sensitive, inflamed skin condition such as rosacea. Fatty acids, ceramides and phytosterols in combination with saturated phosphatidylcholine and triglycerides, allow skin-identical physical structures and displays excellent tolerance properties.  DMS base creams achieve this – hence dermaviduals is a perfect match for your skin.

The water used for cleansing should be lukewarm and free from hardening components such as calcium and magnesium ions in order to prevent a salt precipitation of the fatty acids of the skin barrier, which can further destabilise the barrier.

Cleansing products should be free from preservatives (sensitizing potential) and re-fattening substances in the form of silicones or surface-active compounds. Appropriate preparations are gels with pH values up to a maximum of 7, without lauryl sulfate or lauryl ether sulfate (due to their irritating potential). Sugar tensides, for instance, are recommended as alternate cleansing substances. Alternatively, tensides or emulsifier-free cleansing milks can be used.

For further reading click here.

References:
  • Dr Hans. Lautenschläger, various publications Beauty Forum & Cosmetic Medicine
  • Dr Lance Setterfield; Concise Guide to Dermal Rolling, 2011
  • Florence Barrett-Hill; Skin Treatment Therapy for the Medical/ Therapeutic Professional, 2008

Photographs courtesy of © Virtual Beauty Corporation

Dermaviduals®: Eczema

Eczema

Eczema is a general term for numerous non-contagious types of skin inflammation (dermatitis) and allergic-type skin rashes.1 Referred to as neurodermatitis, atopic dermatitis, or endogenous eczema, this skin condition is a very common and long-lasting skin disease that affects many people throughout the world. Approximately 10-20 percent of children show symptoms as well as about 3-5 percent of adults.3 It is estimated that 65 percent of individuals develop symptoms in the first year of life and 90 percent before 5 years of age.10 Indications include itching, scaly skin patches, and a rash, found in the folds of the arms, back of the knees, wrists, face, or hands.10 More severe symptoms worsen the condition. Continuous rubbing and itching exacerbates the sensitivity.10 This response leads to a continuous cycle of reaction from an over activated immune system.

There are commonly three associated conditions occurring in the same person: eczema, allergies, and asthma.10 While each may not occur at the same time, individuals tend to be prone to all three conditions.10 A poorly developed immune system during childhood appears to be the catalyst for later acquired sensitivity towards atopic diseases like neurodermatitis, hay fever, and allergic asthma.10 There are numerous triggers that can promote additional inflammation and/or attacks. They include smoke, stress (physical and mental), milk products, citrus fruits, allergens (dust mites, pollen, animal hair, textiles), other skin sensitisers, microbial infections and environmental changes (climatic).2 The propensity for allergies tends to be greater in big cities than in rural areas.2

The immune system

Most everyone recovers from infections thanks to our innate immune system. We rely on it to defend against bacteria and viruses such as colds, the flu, and when we have an injury. Unfortunately, other individuals are born with a defective immune defense system and identified as having a primary immunodeficiency (PI). 13 The World Health Organization lists more than 70 types of immune deficiencies, varying from mild to severe. All have a commonality in that they open the door to multiple infections. More than half of all PIs are a result of the lack of infection-fighting antibodies (immunoglobulins). 13 Continuous infections are a tell tale sign of PI, including ear and sinus infections and more severe life-threatening illnesses such as pneumonia.13 In severe cases of PI, both antibodies and T cells are disabled causing a major immunodeficiency making any infection life threatening.13

There are numerous characteristics associated with PIs including a connection with other immune disorders, such as anemia, arthritis, or autoimmune diseases.13 Some may also be associated with the heart, digestive tract, or the nervous system with others increasing cancer risks.13 Given the complexity of a developing immune system during foetal growth, it also means that hundreds of things can go wrong. Even the cell backup systems that normally correct genetic mishaps may not be working efficiently. These errors can make people susceptible to pathogens. When genes are working correctly the body develops and maintains health. Small changes or mutations, however, in just a single gene can have a vast effect on a developing foetis resulting in a birth defect and/or a compromised immune system leading to diseases.13

PI diseases are normally inherited and can be passed from parent to child and occur when genes are being copied.13 Even when parents show no signs of a defect, one or both may be caring a defected or mutated gene and pass it to the child. The child can show signs of immunodeficiency if it doesn’t have a normal gene to compensate the defective gene.13 Furthermore, immune deficiencies can be acquired later in life when there damage to the immune system. HIV is an example. Congenital AIDS may occur (passed down by the mother). The disease in this case is viral and not inherited.

Since our focus in this article is eczema, skin treatment therapists should be aware that the activity of atopic dermatitis and other skin conditions/reactions can easily occur due to the fact that one or more essential parts of the immune system is missing or not working properly at birth due to a genetic defect.13 We must become aware of this health condition during our initial skin analysis and be mindful that there may be numerous reasons for it. Skin conditions involving atopic dermatitis and/or psoriasis may require medical supervision. When this skin anomaly is in remission, we must also be aware that if the client checks “yes” to allergies, psoriasis, dermatitis, etc. that it serves as an indicator of possible conditions occurring within the skin barri

Table 1 – Types of Eczema 11, 14

Atopic dermatitis

A type of eczema, it is an inflammatory, chronically relapsing, non-contagious and pruritic (itchy) skin disorder.5   AD is a specific set of three associated conditions occurring in the same individual: eczema, allergies, and asthma.  Not all is present concurrently but the patient is prone to all three conditions.

Cause: Hereditary predisposition.

Contact eczema

A reaction that is localized and displays itching, redness, and burning.

Cause: Skin contact with an allergen or with an irritant, i.e., an acid, cleansing agent, chemical, jewelry (nickel, or other metals). 11

Allergic contact eczema

A reaction when the skin is comes in contact with poison ivy, poison oak, certain ointments, creams, adhesive tape, and preservatives.  The skin becomes red, itchy, and weepy.

Cause: A misguided reaction by our immune system in response to bodily contact with certain foreign substances. 10

Seborrheic eczema (seborrheic dermatitis or seborrhea)

Prevalent to 3-5% of world population, this is a common form of mild skin inflammation found on the sebum-rich scalp, face, or trunk.  Visual observation: yellowish, oily, red, itchy scaly patches of skin on the scalp, face, ears, and other parts of the body.  An example is cradle cap on infants or dandruff in adults.

Cause: Linked with Malassezia (Pityrosporum yeast), immunologic abnormalities, trauma (scratching), and emotional stress.  May worsen in the presence of disease such as Parkinson or AIDS.10

Nummular eczema (Discoid dermatitis)

Coin-shaped isolated patches of irritated, crusty, scaling, and extremely itchy skin normally found on the arms, back, buttocks, and lower legs.1   “Nummus” means coins.

Cause: The cause is not known with the exception that there is a family history of allergies, asthma, and atopic dermatitis.7   Appears to be associated with exposure to drying soaps, and exposure to irritating fabrics, i.e., wool.8   It is considered a long-term (chronic) condition.6

Dermatitis artefacta

A condition in which skin lesions are inflicted solely by the patient.  Fingernails, sharp or blunt objects, and caustic chemicals may be used to inflict skin.  Commonly occurs in teens or young women that may be experiencing interpersonal challenges that require psychosocial support.14

Neurodermatitis

Known as Lichen simplex chronicus this condition produces a very intense itch caused by irritation of nerve endings in the skin.12  A chronic scratch-itch cycle continues the irritation.  It can develop on skin that was previously affected by atopic or contact dermatitis.  Open sores can be a result of chronic itching and scratching.  Constant scratching causes the skin to thicken and darken with lines of scaring.  There is susceptibility to infection.  It normally can occur in mid-to-late adulthood between 30 – 50 years of age.10Cause: Emotional stress, insect bite, or poor blood flow (circulation).

Dyshidrotic eczema

Irritation found on the palms of hands and soles of the feet characterised by clear, deep blisters that itch and burn.

Stasis dermatitis

Irritation of the skin on the lower legs appearing as darker pigmentation, light brown, or purplish-red discoloration. Cause: Related to circulatory problems and congestion of the leg veins.10 Sometimes seen in legs with varicose veins.

Psoriasis

Sometimes difficult to distinguish between seborrheic eczema (SE) that is located on the head, the scales of psoriasis are thicker and somewhat dryer than the scales in SE.  Considered a hyperproliferative disease, psoriasis usually affects more than one area of the body such as elbows, knees, hands or feet, including nail changes (pitting).  Instead of the normal cell desquamation that takes place in the skin, cells pile up and don’t slough off.  Cells in a psoriasis condition mature about five times faster than cells in normal skin.9

Cause: A genetic miscommunication and malfunction of the immune system.  T cells appear to be at the root of the cause that overgrow and attack the area of the skin at the location of the psoriasis.9 The immune system is supposed to protect the skin.  In cases of psoriasis, T cells end up proliferating and attacking at the site of psoriasis.  Biopsies show that there are many T cells underneath the plaque.9 Inflammation is the result as well as continuous propagation of skin cells. Research shows that the release of cytokines (signal messengers) is a normal process during an immune response, however, in psoriasis, there appears to be a malfunction in the signaling process. 9  The area has increased cell buildup, becomes red and irritated.

Terminology

Atopic: Atopic syndrome is a predisposition toward developing certain allergic hypersensitivity.
Dermatitis: Inflammation of the skin.
Stasis: Motionless, stoppage of flow of body fluids.
Xerosis: Dryness of the skin and barrier dysfunction.

Treatment (Medical)

There are several treatments used for treating dermatitis conditions and we will review just a few. Common remedies include corticosteroid creams and ointments, antihistamines, systemic corticosteroids (prednisone), antibiotics and other anti-inflammatory substances. Bases in certain brands may become irritating and also can cause thinning of the skin.10 Cortisone has an anti-inflammatory effect and urea reduces the itching effect as well as hydrates. Unfortunately, cortisone can cause skin atrophy after long-term use. Consequently, there is an increased susceptibility towards substances with allergenic potential. When the symptoms are so severe, the treatment program may not be effective enough to alleviate the condition. Continued use of these remedial substances may produce increased sensitivity towards external influences including the potential for infection. 10

More severe cases of atopic dermatitis may be treated with immune modulators, Tacrolimus (Protopic), cyclosporine A, interferon-ϒ, and pimecrolimus (Elidel) ointments.10 They are very powerful drugs. The FDA has placed special warning on immune modulator drugs due to cancer and other immune-system suppression issues.10

Phototherapy treatments with UVA or UVB wavelengths have been used for mild to moderate dermatitis in children over 12 years of age and in adults.

Eczema from a dermaviduals® point of view

Dehydrated skin with a high TEWL is very characteristic of eczematic skin. Seasonal weather changes can also play havoc with this skin condition. The result is a barrier disorder that leaves the skin in a more vulnerable state with an increased susceptibility for penetration of external substances such as microorganisms (fungi, bacteria and viruses).10 The stratum corneum exhibits a deficiency in ceramide-1 (linoleic acid), a main barrier component of the skin.10 Understanding the synthesis pathway for essential fatty acids, the presence of dermatitis serves as an indicator of an enzyme defect that inhibits the transformation of linoleic acid into gamma-linoleic acid (refer to our article on “Essential Fatty Acids”).10 Given that dermatitis attacks are cycling, using the intermittent times when flare-up is minimal is an ideal time to use preventative measures in order to mitigate continuous deterioration of the skin barrier. Moreover, when correct corneotherapy actives are used, they may help support the skin by increasing its barrier function. The good news is that this could easily reduce the requirement for more drug intervention.

Cosmetic ingredients

The choice of skin care is imperative to supporting dry and scaly skin conditions. Most products contain a host of ingredients to stabilise their components as well colourants and fragrance that add to the marketing appeal of the product. Some, however, are counter-indicated for dry skin and for individuals suffering from dermatitis and/or other allergy conditions. Mineral oils and other petrolatum substances, silicones, and ceresin wax slow down the self-regenerating capability of the skin.2

Emulsifiers

Emulsifiers are used in most modern skin care products. They combine fat and water substances into a cream preventing separation of oil and water. Unfortunately, they have a wash out affect in the skin, dissolving ingredients of creams along with the natural skin lipids out of the skin.2 With each cleansing more of the natural skin lipids end up being removed. Eventually and with continuous application of the skin care cream, the barrier (NMF) actually becomes impaired and unable to self-correct. The skin begins to feel dry with increased TEWL. The tendency is to continue to re-apply more cream to correct the dry skin condition. This senseless cycle eventually places the skin in a cycle of imbalance.

Following the guidelines of corneotherapy, correcting dry skin conditions requires application of emulsifier free products to reduce and balance TEWL. Linoleic acid containing ceramide 1 is very important for the skin layers and must be readily available to the cell membranes and bilayers of the skin. When there is a reduction in ceramide 1, there is a propensity for dry and scaly skin.

Emulsifying agents can be replaced with liposomes and nanoparticles for penetrating actives. To soothe the itching in irritated skin, urea has positive effects. These specialised delivery spheres increase the permeability of the skin for the delivery of actives. They should be followed by an application of derma membrane cream (DMS®) whose chemical composition mimics the natural skin barrier. They are ideal for dermatitis conditions since they do not contain water and are free of preservatives. Dermatitis clients tend to tolerate pure vegetable oils and waxes, i.e., olive and jojoba oil in skin care that is free of water and preservative systems. Vegetable oils, lipids and waxes are able to integrate into the stratum corneum and begin to support barrier repair are generally well received in these skins.

A primary goal of introducing corneotherapy products onto eczematic skin is to reduce the amount of drugs that may further break down an already compromised barrier. Cleansers should contain very mild surfactants. Sodium lauryl sulfate type surfactants have been shown to be an irritant. They denature proteins and have hemolytic effects (destruction of cell membranes of red blood cells). 4 Cleansing milks contain membrane substances and increased oil content and avoid the washout of the natural barrier substances. These recommendations are not only for the face but also for the rest of the body. Water pH should remain neutral.

Cosmetic ingredients can be effective toward inhibiting inflammatory reactions. Sensitive skin should be protected against direct sunlight as it can degrade the active affects of a formula. Inflammatory conditions from eczema, dermatoses, and dermatitis respond well to Evening Primrose Oil, Linseed Oil, Boswellia, D-panthenol, phosphatidylcholine (nanodispersions), and Echinacea Extracts, as well as Lotion N and Novrithen.

In conclusion, treatment choice for irritated skin types requires careful analysis of the individual skin type. The goal is to rebuild the barrier as much as possible

dermaviduals® Results

Figure 13 Treatment of Fissures with dermaviduals®

 

References

  1. Alai, N. MD, (June 2008) Atopic Dermatitis. Retrieved fromhttp://www.medicinenet.com/script/main/art.asp?articlekey=353&pf=3&page=1
  2. Lautenschläger, H. (2001) Neurodermatitis – specific prevention. Kosmetik International (11), 44-47.
  3. Lautenschläger, H. (2005) Skin care for the neurodermitic skin – supporting the skin barrier. Kosmetische Praxis (1), 9-11
  4. Lautenschläger, H. (2008) Skin reactions – cosmetics and their effects. P. 2
  5. Medical-dictionary.the free dictionary.com/atopic
  6. Nummular eczema (May 13, 2011) A.D.A.M. Medical Encyclopedia. PubMed Health. Retrieved fromhttp://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmedhealth/PMH0001873/
  7. Nummular eczema, MedlinePlus http://vsearch.nlm.nih.gov/vivisimo/cgi-bin/query-meta?v%3Aproject=medlineplus&query=nummular+eczema&x=0&y=0
  8. Nummular Dermatitis Retrieved from http://www.skinsight.com/adult/nummularDermatitis.htm
  9. Stuart, A., Nazario, B. Psoriasis Treatments: Now and in the Future: What Causes Psoriasis? WebMD Retrieved from http://www.webmd.com/skin-problems-and-treatments/psoriasis-treatment-11/causes
  10. Szeftel, A. MD (2008) Atopic Dermatitis. MedicineNet.com. Retrieved fromhttp://www.medicinenet.com/script/main/art.asp?articlekey=353&pf=3&page=1
  11. Table adapted from Alai, N. MD (2 June 2008). What is the difference between atopic dermatitis and eczema? Retrieved from http://answers.webmd.com/answers/1172930/what-is-the-difference-between-atopic
  12. Types of Eczema: Neurodermatitis. EczemaNet. Retrieved fromhttp://www.skincarephysicians.com/eczemanet/neurodermatitis.html
  13. When the Body’s Defenses Are Missing: Primary Immunodeficiency. National Institute of Child Health and Human Development, National Institutes of Health. Retrieved fromhttp://www.nichd.nih.gov/publications/pubs/primary_immuno.cfm
  14. Atopic eczema, Dermatitis artefacta – DermNetNZ Retrieved fromhttp://www.dermnetnz.org/dermatitis/dermatitis-artefacta.html

Photo Sources

Photos: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10 – Wikipedia
Photo: 7 Sourced from DermNet NZ
Photos: 9 – U.S. NATIONAL LIBRARY OF U.S. National Library of Medicine NIH National Institutes of Health and MedLine Plus (a service of NIH)
Photo: 11 – Simone Vescio
Photo: 13 – Kathryn Mazierski

Disclaimer

This dossier has been prepared on behalf of dermaviduals Australia and New Zealand as a reference that relates to various skin conditions. In no way does it replace the advice of your medical practitioner or a dermatologist. All views represent the research and findings of the writer in conjunction with derma aesthetics.

Your Guide To Basic Make – Up

Make up colors change with fashion styles and seasons. The latest new color may or may not be right for you, so how do you take the gamble out of buying make up? You can get a professional makeover to help you choose the colors that are best for your skin tone, or you can learn to choose the best colors.

Classification of Colours

There are two Groups.

Warm

Green, Brown, Orange, Yellow, Gold, Lemon, Rust, Fawn, Cream, Apricot, Mustard and Bronze.

Cool

Blue, Purple, Pink, Grey, Sliver, Burgundy, Aqua, Violet, Ivory, Red, White, Black, Lilac, Maroon.

If your new to the make up concept it can all feel a bit daunting. What should i have in my make up bag? What goes where? What order do i do everything?

Whats in a basic Make up bag?

  • Foundation – Evens out skin colour and helps to disguise minor imperfections. Providing an even,smooth base for colour.
  • Powder – Sets make up, makes it last longer, Diminishes any oil shine, gives a matte appearance to over all make up.
  • Eyeshadow – Gives extra definition and extra shape and/or correction to eyes. Brightens entire face, indroducing colour to co-ordinate with clothes, draws attention to eyes.
  •  Eyeliner – Defines eyes, makes the eyes pop. Creates different finishes and looks.
  • Lipstick – Brightens face, adds definition and/or correct lip shape. Balances emphasis on eyes.
  • Blusher – Balances and co- ordinates colour between lips and eyes
  • Mascara – Gives length and thickness to lashes, gives finer definition to eyes
  • Brow pencil – Gives definition and correction to shape of eye brows if necessary.

This order of application should result in an overall co – ordinated look, creating harmony between the cosmetics and clothing.

Method of application

Foundation – Do a small amount over the face after moisturising for an easy and even distribution. Blend outward over entire face, including lips and eyebrows. If preferred, use a damp sponge and wipe gently over the entire face.

Powder – Apply with brush across forehead, over eyelids, face and lips. Brush facial hair downwards.

Eyeshadow– Use a small amount of powder on brush. Soft sweeping motions across the eyelid as dabbing movements tend to cause fall out on the cheeks and lashes. More colour can be applied if desired but it is difficult to remove excess.

Eyeliner – Start with a think line on top of the upper lid as close to the lashes as possible, from the inner corner to the outer corner finishing with an upward flick. If you want a thicker line simply go over until desired width is achieved.

Lipstick– outline lip using lip brush or pencil, if using pencil make sure to lightly color the lip before applying the lipstick, this will create a softer lip line when your lipstick fades through out the day. If longer lasting effect is desired – Blot, apply powder over lips, re apply lipstick and blot again. Gloss can be used over the lipstick if desired.

Blusher – Apply with a brush on cheek bones toward hair line. Do not use too much as again it is hard to remove excess.

Mascara – Upper lashes, apply with a zig zag motion to coat and separate lashes to avoid clumping. Lower lashes do the same with a lighter pressure as it is easy to transfer mascara onto the skin.

Brows – To add shape and complete the look, take a natural brow pencil or powder and fill in your brows, following the natural/ desired shape.

The correct foundation to suit your skin color.

Pale      Ivory toned foundation, cream beige or Bare beige.

Olive    Golden Tones

Dark    Bronzing tones, Golden Tan, or Toasty Beige.

Ruddy   Beige tones with no pink.

Sallow   Warm, Rose Beige.

It is always a good idea to get the over the counter sales technician to help you find the correct foundation for you.

Hiding Flaws

Although foundation will help to hide most of the flaws and imperfections of your skin, such as un even pigment, redness, shadows under the eyes, small pimples – these problems can be concealed with fresh colored creams and tinted creams which go on before your foundation.

Spots                                                 Medicated flesh colored sticks to cover spots.

Shadows under eyes                     Light colored concealing creams.

Redness                                             Green tinted stick used under foundation.

General Visual Effects

Colour

Light – Brings out, Enlarges, Accentuates, highlights.

Dark – Recedes, Deepens, Diminishes, Gives definition.

Texture

Shiny – Glosses, Highlights, Frosts, Accentuates.

Matte – Disguises oiliness, Make imperfections less noticeable, eg wrinkles, Longer lasting effect.

If you still feel like you ned a little guidance most of your local salons offer make up lessons, as do department store counters, book in and have someone show you on your face, as no two faces are the same.

The most important advice i can give you tho is to have FUN with make up, rock it, be confident because its about how it makes you feel on the inside that counts!

Help! I Have Ingrowns!

After hair removal, as the hair grows back, it can sometimes become blocked and trapped in the hair follicle turning into bumps or even infected pores. As the hair grows it can either just curl up, and look unsightly from the surface, or it can “dig” into the surrounding skin. This will cause the skin to regard it as foreign material, and it will try to push it out, hence the infection and inflammation.

Prevention is the key. Moisturising the skin daily is important to keep …it soft because when the skin is dry, it pulls tight at the surface, tightening up the mouth of the follicle blocking the hair.

A thin film of dead cell build-up on the surface can also block the hair, so exfoliating 2-3 times per week will help prevent the problem and even help “release” the blocked hair before it becomes a problem. A good loofah or a body scrub can do the job nicely.

If the hair follicles have become infected and inflamed, treat the infection by dabbing on an anti-bacterial toner, serum, cream or lotion. Your beauty therapist can recommend a good anti-bacterial product we usually use to treat infected acne. Anti-bacterial ingredients to look out for include willow bark or willow herb, centella asiatica, uva ursi (bearberry) extract, calendula, tea tree oil, magnesium, gentian extract, boric acid, ascorbic acid (vitamin C), matricaria (chamomile) oil, chaparral extract, zinc and salicylic acid which also doubles as an exfoliant to help release the trapped hair from the hair follicle. All of the above are also anti inflammatory, helping to reduce the localised redness and swelling surrounding the infected ingrown hair. Some of these ingredients may be too strong and very irritating on intimate areas, so please consult with your beauty therapist for advice.

To draw out a stubborn ingrown hair, I found zinc based acne spot treatment very good. Another option I found great is Ichthammol Ointment in a carrier such as paraffin or beeswax. The best ones also contains natural ingredients such as arnica, vitamin E or comfrey, which can further aid in healing. Apply on the ingrown hair, cover with a band aid, and allow it to draw the hair and any infection out to the surface. When the hair is ready to pop, you can gently ease it out with sterilised tweezers. If you’re not sure how, or need help, your beauty therapist may be able to tweeze or lance the stubborn hair out.

Basic Skin Care

It only takes practice to perfect the skill. Knowing how to care for your skin is important to you.

Cleanser

Far from being beneficial, most soaps should be used in great moderation. The acidity of the skin is known as the “acid mantle”. The skin loses its protective acid coating, is denuded of natural moisturising factors and oils, and becomes alkaline through the use of soap- leaving theskin dry and irritable.

Your cleanser will depend on your skin type. A good cleanser will clean the surface of your skin by emulsifying the oily secretions, dirt, pollution, make up and so forth without stripping the skin. They must have a natural pH or be slightly acidic.

Use enough cleanser to cover a 20c piece in the palm of your hand. Dab then stroke upward and outward over the throat and face to disperse. Don’t scrub at your face, just use a gentle even pressure. Remove the cleanser with a warm wet face cloth.

Aromatic Waters, Toners and Astringents

These products are used to complete the cleansing process by removing the residual oily film, dirt and every last trace of cleanser which my be present on the skin. They also tighten the pores (not close them), and can tone and refresh the skin and saturate the epidermis.

The action of the lotion varies according to the essences used and the percentage of alcohol in the solution. Be cautious with lotions containing alcohol as they will dry, dehydrate and irritate the skin.

Moisturiser

A moisturiser, contrary to popular opinion, cannot “put” moisture which has been lost back into the skin. This product leaves a thin film on the skin to prevent moisture loss and alleviate dehydration, provide a protective layer which lubricates the skin surface and protects against dirt and pollution, and prevents powder and make up base from obstructing the skin. Once again the moisturiser that will suit your skin will depend on your skins needs. Even an oily skin can lack moisture or water!

Use enough moisturiser to cover a 5C piece on the palm of your hand. Dab then stroke upward and outward over the face and throat to disperse. Don’t forget your eyes!

Night Cream or Treatment Cream

These creams contain active ingredients and oils and their purpose is to nourish the skin and combat devitalisation. They are commonly used around the eyes and on the throat as both areas are delicate and practically devoid of oil glands. When applying around your eyes be careful not to stretch your skin. Pat on with a gentle rolling motion of your fingers.

Eye Cream

Applying a small amount to the under eye and a tiny amount to the lid areas. These creams are formulated to nourish and tone the skin. Overuse of these creams will allow excess water from the product to collect under the eyes giving a baggy look to the area.

Masks

There is a mask for every specialised skin problem. Ask your beauty therapist to recommend one for you. A mask is a type of deep cleansing preparation (as are steam treatments) and should be used after cleansing. Always tone and moisturise after such a treatment. The action of any mask depends on its active ingredients’ and they can be used 1-3 times per week before a special occasion or as a “pic-me-up” to give your skin a special treat.

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Cancellations

At Face & Body, we recognise your time is valuable and offer appointments to suit your needs.

We ask please that you give 24 hours’ notice when cancelling your appointment. No Shows, or cancellations with less than 24 hours’ notice, will be charged at 50% of their appointment cost to recover the costs in salon.

If you are unwell or cannot utilise your set time you may elect to send a friend, a family member or colleague to utilise your appointment time. But do contact us immediately as we do have a sympathetic ear and accept that sometimes life does not go to plan. Communication is key – Please call us on 09-8174807.